The Mezcal Boom: Can Tradition & Sustainability Coexist?
As mezcal’s popularity skyrockets, the industry faces a crucial challenge: Can it scale without sacrificing its artisanal roots and ecological sustainability?
Mezcal is experiencing a remarkable surge in popularity across the United States and internationally. Even in its birthplace of Mexico, the spirit’s reputation has transformed dramatically. Once dismissed as tequila’s quirky cousin, mezcal has become a mainstream sensation commanding worldwide respect.
Today, innovative mezcal cocktails grace the menus of prestigious bars around the globe. This widespread acceptance marks a dramatic shift from just a decade ago, when mezcal cocktails were rare, and twenty years ago, when they were virtually non-existent. Though mezcal and tequila share the same source plant – agave – their distinct production methods set them apart while keeping them in the same spirits family. While tequila must be made exclusively from blue Weber agave, mezcal’s versatility shines through its use of 30-40 different agave varieties in commercial production. Though tequila still dominates in sales volume, mezcal’s explosive growth makes it the fastest-rising star in the global spirits industry.
The numbers tell a compelling story. According to the IWSR, mezcal sales volume in the United States surged by nearly 50% in 2019, followed by a 15% increase in 2020. Industry projections suggest this momentum will continue, with mezcal expected to grow at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 22.605.445.50% through 2031. To appreciate this remarkable trajectory, consider that the beer industry’s projected CAGR is just % over the next five years, while vodka’s is %. Mezcal’s growth rate is leaving these traditional powerhouses in the dust.
Here’s the bottom line: Mezcal is exploding in popularity like no other spirit right now. You’ll be seeing a lot more of this smoky Mexican agave spirit everywhere – from your local liquor store shelves to trendy cocktail bars to your favorite restaurants. And trust me, this isn’t just a passing fad. Mezcal is cementing its place in drinking culture.
What is Mezcal? How Does It Differ from Tequila?
Mezcal has come a long way from being known as a “poor man’s drink.” While both mezcal and tequila come from agave plants, mezcal has historically been viewed as tequila’s oddball half-brother. Unlike tequila, mezcal could be made from any agave species in any condition, making it accessible to the masses across Mexico. Those who looked down on mezcal missed out – it’s a sophisticated spirit with far more complexity than tequila. Its distinctive smoky flavor and robust alcohol profile have made it a favorite among creative bartenders. Chefs have embraced it too, using it to enhance marinades, grilled dishes, and roasted meats and seafood. Like wine, mezcal offers an endless tasting journey, with nuanced flavor profiles varying based on the type of agave used and its growing location.
The key difference lies in both production and ingredients. Tequila must be made exclusively from blue Weber agave, while mezcal can be crafted from at least 30 different agave varieties. Both spirits start with harvesting the piña (the agave plant’s core or “head”), but their paths diverge in the cooking process. For mezcal, producers roast the piña in stone-ground or earthen pits over fire, which creates its characteristic smoky flavor. Tequila production is more industrialized – the piñas are typically steamed in modern facilities, resulting in a smoother, more refined taste. After cooking, both spirits follow similar steps: the cooked agave is ground to release its juices, yeast is added to ferment the sugars into alcohol, and the liquid is distilled until it reaches its final form. The cultivation method and cooking process ultimately determine whether the end product is mezcal or tequila.
Why Did Mezcal Become So Popular?
Before 1994, Mexico had virtually no regulations governing mezcal production. Producers could sell mezcal of any age or quality without oversight, leading to inconsistent products that earned mezcal an unfavorable reputation as a “poor man’s drink.” The market remained small until 1997, when the Official Mexican Standards (NOM) introduced the first real regulations. By 2005, these standards became law, marking what many consider the beginning of the mezcal boom.
The 2005 regulations caught the eye of North American entrepreneurs and investors, who recognized an opportunity in this emerging market. Since then, twelve large-scale production facilities have been built, and the Oaxaca state government has invested millions in mezcal marketing campaigns. This coordinated effort created new demand for mezcal, and its popularity spread rapidly.
Interestingly, Oaxaca, where most mezcal originates, ranks among Mexico’s poorest states. The government’s significant investment in mezcal promotion might seem counterintuitive given the region’s economic challenges, but it represents a strategic effort to develop a valuable export industry and create economic opportunities for local communities.
Either way, it’s working. Travel + Leisure‘s readers named Oaxaca (the capital city of the eponymously named state) the “best city in the world.” Not just in Mexico or Latin America—in the entire world. It outranked countless renowned destinations. Just twenty years ago, Oaxaca barely registered on most travelers’ radar, but now luxury resorts and distilleries are sprouting up as frequently as wineries in Napa Valley. While this transformation delights Travel + Leisure readers, it raises an important question: how have Oaxaca’s residents and workers actually benefited from this tourism surge?
The reality is complex. The mezcal-fueled tourism boom has brought both positive and negative changes to Oaxaca. History has proved that economic benefits rarely “trickle down” to those at society’s bottom. While foreign investment and government tourism campaigns aren’t exactly the same as trickle-down economics, they follow a similar pattern. The primary beneficiaries of these initiatives are foreign investors, local business owners, government officials, and tourists themselves. Those at the pyramid’s peak reap the greatest rewards from Oaxaca’s tourism explosion.
Make of that what you will.
What Regulations Govern Mezcal Production?
Mezcal production regulations serve two essential purposes: ensuring consistent quality and preserving artisanal production methods. Both elements are vital for the spirit’s continued growth and success. Historically, inconsistent quality hurt mezcal’s reputation. While mezcal’s diverse flavor profile – stemming from its use of various agave species and production methods – should be celebrated as a unique strength, it previously worked against the spirit’s reputation. By mandating artisanal production methods, regulations help maintain mezcal’s authenticity and traditional character.
This commitment to authenticity, particularly through hand-crafted production, has become the primary driver of mezcal’s popularity in the United States.
The regulatory standards include several specific requirements. Mezcal must be bottled at its origin, cannot be bulk-shipped with other spirits, and must derive its sweetness naturally from agave plants. While producers can use any agave variety, it must be grown within designated Denomination of Origin regions: Oaxaca, Guerrero, Guanajuato, Michoacán, Zacatecas, San Luís Potosí, Tamaulipas, Durango, and Puebla. Notably, Oaxaca produces approximately 90% of all mezcal.
Regulations classify mezcal into three categories: mezcal, artisanal mezcal, and ancestral mezcal. Ancestral mezcal follows the strictest standards but is rarely produced. Artisanal mezcal, the most common category, requires traditional production methods while allowing some flexibility in fermentation techniques. Basic mezcal permits modern equipment like an autoclave, but this industrialization strips away the spirit’s artisanal character. As consumers, we should avoid this basic category. While mezcal’s growing popularity presents challenges, industrializing its production isn’t the answer to addressing the industry’s current challenges.
Challenges and Sustainability
The challenge with mezcal’s growing popularity stems from its defining characteristic: its artisanal nature. By definition, artisanal means “a product, especially food or drink, made in a traditional or non-mechanized way.” In other words, it takes time – and lots of it. This creates a fundamental tension: how do you rapidly scale an artisanal product while maintaining its traditional character? The booming mezcal industry is discovering just how difficult this balance can be.
The timeline alone poses a significant hurdle. Some agave varieties used in mezcal can take up to 25 years to reach maturity. This puts producers at an immediate disadvantage against market demands. Imagine waiting a quarter-century for your crop to grow, only to face the additional time constraints of traditional production methods. You can probably see where this is heading.
Even the fastest-growing agave varieties need about 7 years to mature. While harvesting crops early might seem like a solution, it seriously threatens wild agave reproduction. Simply planting more agave isn’t the answer either – we’re already facing significant ecological challenges from expanding farmland across the globe.
There is hope, however, through organizations promoting sustainable practices in mezcal and tequila production. The Bat Friendly Project, based in Mexico, advocates for incorporating bats into sustainable agave harvesting. In nature, agave plants reproduce by flowering and dispersing seeds, but premature harvesting prevents this process. When producers rush to meet market demands, they inadvertently threaten the plant’s natural reproduction cycle – essentially mortgaging their future for short-term gains.
Alas, the bats – nature’s master pollinators. The Bat Friendly Project has a simple yet effective proposal: allow just 5% of agave crops to reach full maturity, creating a natural environment for bats to pollinate the land. These remarkable creatures efficiently cross-pollinate agave plants, effectively mimicking nature’s process as if the entire crop had matured naturally. This approach not only preserves traditional growing methods but also protects vital bat populations.
Producers who embrace these bat-friendly standards can earn certification, helping them stand out in the market while enabling consumers to make environmentally conscious choices. This consumer awareness is crucial – perhaps even more important than the certification itself – in promoting sustainable practices. After all, consumers, including bar owners, restaurateurs, and retailers, hold tremendous power through their purchasing decisions to support and encourage sustainable business practices.
Consumer Role in Sustainability
Producers will always look for ways to economize production – it’s just good business practice. However, this changes only when consumers create incentives for sustainable practices.
Mezcal should not be treated as a commodity or compared with mass-produced spirits. It deserves independent featuring in liquor stores and should be showcased on menus, similar to wine. The time-intensive nature of mezcal production naturally results in higher prices, which consumers should understand and accept. When purchasing mezcal, consumers should prioritize quality, origin, and characteristics over price point.
Every bottle carries a unique story, from the harvesting of agave to the traditional production methods. Mezcal deserves to be treated as a premium product, with clear minimum standards for doing business. Supporting small producers over foreign brands backed by venture capitalists helps preserve these traditional practices. Look for the Bat Friendly Certification when making your choice – it indicates sustainable farming practices that protect local ecosystems. The push for sustainability can and should begin with informed consumers, not just in venture capital boardrooms.
So, treat yourself to some sustainably sourced mezcal and enjoy it in your glass… or your cooking!
Featured Mezcal Recipes:
To truly appreciate the versatility and unique flavors of mezcal, here are some exceptional recipes that showcase this remarkable spirit:
Cinnamon Hibiscus Mezcal Margarita
Experience the vibrant fusion of tart hibiscus and warming cinnamon in this delightful margarita. The smoky undertones of mezcal perfectly balance the floral hibiscus and spicy cinnamon, creating a refreshing and memorable cocktail that’s perfect for any occasion.
Limoncello Mezcal Sour
Discover the Limoncello Mezcal Sour, a cocktail that marries smoky intensity with zesty citrus. Earthy mezcal dances with bright limoncello, while honey adds sweetness and orange bitters bring depth. A silky egg white foam crowns this perfectly balanced drink.
Creamy Mezcal, Bacon, and Roasted Tomato Linguine
Try Creamy Mezcal, Bacon, and Roasted Tomato Linguine for a bold, smoky twist on classic pasta. The mezcal’s subtle smokiness enhances the richness of crispy bacon and roasted tomatoes, creating an indulgent and complex sauce—perfect for showcasing mezcal’s versatility beyond the glass.
I've never even heard of mezcal. Now I will be looking for it.
Thank you for opening me up to a whole new world!